In autumn 2002 the Nar and Phu valleys, spectacular regions
of ethnically Tibetan inhabitants, were opened for trekking. This
region was first explored by Tilman in the 1950s. Climbing
expeditions have been visiting the region since the 1950s to attempt
the nearly 7,000 m Mt Kanguru, whose imposing western flanks
dominate the approaches to the two valleys, but very few trekkers
have explored these virtually untouched villages.
I was here in 2002 and 2005.
This trek from Koto/Meta to
Kang La/Ngawal is a side trip from
the Annapurna Circuit Khudi
- Koto
Meta.
The trail to Nar crosses the small mountain on the left
A glacial stream between
Meta and Chako
Above, the
middle: The guesthouse in Meta is being extended. While the owners
are busy with the harvest, their 17-year-old son, Karma, runs the
guesthouse.
Here he is preparing the curry for the dal bhat
I hire Dek Bardur,
the builder of the new wing of the guesthouse, as my porter from
Meta to Muktinath. He drinks heavily, and to begin with I am worried
when we walk along narrow and dangerous trails. However, he never
has any problems.
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photo to enlarge
Chako between Meta and Kyang seen from the north. Pisang Peak in the
back
Chako
Kyang
It is a long trek from Meta
to Phu. We see blue sheep (naur) above the trail.
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photo to enlarge
Mani wall in Kyang
Kyang
Young porters from a trekking group in Kyang
For three months in winter Phu is
almost deserted when villagers and animals
move south to the winter
settlement of Kyang.
After Kyang you enter a deep and narrow gorge, at first walking along a
narrow trail cut out of the rock high above the river.
In some places you must have a head for heights.
A
bridge across Phu Khola before you reach Phu gate
The narrow trail high above the river
At the end of the gorge
there is a tall
monolith guarding the steep trail up to Pupigyal Kwe, Phu
gate
NB: Klik på billedet for forstørrelse / Click on photo to enlarge
Mani wall at Phu gate
Pupigyal Kwe, Phu gate
After Phu gate you enter
this beautiful, barren gorge
Mani wall at Phu gate
In the gorge you pass several chortens and the remains of
a fort
before you meet a line of wonderful chortens at the
flatlands before Phu
Nar
Phu valleys are reached by following the Annapurna Circuit as far as
Koto and then heading north through a narrow gorge, alongside a
thundering river and into the high, arid valleys that Bhotia people have
inhabited for many centuries. On your way to Phu you pass through the
semi-permanent winter settlements of Meta, Chako and
Kyang.
From Nar (Naar) you may cross back into Manang valley across Kang La, or retrace your steps to Koto.
To go to Nar Phu you need
to buy a trekking permit (US $ 120 per week) in Kathmandu or
Pokhara.
The trip to Nar
Phu is a continuation of my trek around the Annapurnas: Khudi
- Koto
I
brought a porter guide from Koto to Ngawal.
Guest houses: There are several lodges in Nar, one or two
primitive ones in Phu, and a hut in Meta.
There are camp sites in Dharmasala (between Koto and Meta),
in Kyang, and between Nar and
Kang La.
Itinerary/Rute
October 7. Koto – Meta. 6 hours’ fast
walking
October 8. Meta – Phu. 7 hours’ fast
walking
October 9. Phu
October 10. Phu – Nar. 9 hours’ fast
walking
October 11 - 12. Nar
October 13. Nar –
Kang La, 5240 m -
Ngawal. 7 hours.
